Food Aggression in Dogs

Guarding oneโ€™s food is a natural, normal behavior for dogs, but itโ€™s not safe for other family members. Fortunately, diligent management will resolve the problem.

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Food aggression in dogs can be very scary. Indeed, it can be downright dangerous!

Food aggression is a subset of a larger behavior known as โ€œresource guarding,โ€ in which a dog behaves aggressively to maintain possession of valuable objects including food, toys, chew items, humans, and even favorite places (beds, crates, couches, rooms). Resource guarding, scary as it may be, is a natural, normal canine behavior โ€“ one thatโ€™s critically important for a wild dogโ€™s survival. If canines in the wild donโ€™t protect their valuable resources, they die.

Of course, your dog doesnโ€™t have to protect his food supply in order to survive โ€“ but itโ€™s up to you to manage his environment so he doesnโ€™t feel like he has to! To prevent, reduce, and/or manage your dogโ€™s food aggression, take these actions:

Feed your dog in a low-traffic, stress-free zone and leave her alone while she eats. She shouldnโ€™t feel threatened by others (human or animal) invading her dining space.

Teach your dog that when you approach her food bowl she gets more good stuff. This is accomplished by walking past her as she eats โ€“ at a distance that doesnโ€™t cause her stress โ€“ and tossing high-value treats (such as fresh, roasted chicken) to her as you pass by. When, after multiple repetitions of this, she grows very happy to see you approaching, you can gradually decrease the distance between you and her bowl as you pass by, until you can toss the treats right into her bowl without causing her any stress. (See โ€œThe โ€˜I Come in Peaceโ€™ Resource-Guarding Modification Protocol,โ€ WDJ May 2020.)

Teach your dog a force-free โ€œtradeโ€ behavior. Use this cue any time you want something that she has. (See โ€œHow to Teach Your Dog to Trade,โ€ February 2017.)

Dog-dog food aggression can worsen over time

Some dog friends communicate perfectly and politely about food theyโ€™d both like to have.ย  Ideally, if a dog is approached by another dog while eating, she would send polite canine social signals to leave her alone โ€“ such as pausing into a brief โ€œfreezeโ€ while eating, giving him a hard stare, and he would back off. The behavior says, โ€œGo away, this is my dinner!โ€ The interloper says, โ€œOops, sorry!โ€ and moves away. This is a best-case scenario: conflict resolved without escalation.

If the interloper is oblivious to or doesnโ€™t understand the guarderโ€™s signals and continues forward, the guarder may escalate to get her message across and protect her food; she may snarl, snap, and/or lunge. One hopes the interloper gets the message, offers appeasement behaviors, and moves away, and the guarder calms down and goes back to eating.

These two levels of โ€œaggressionโ€ may not require any intervention or behavior change on your part โ€“ as long as the encounters donโ€™t progress to the next levels.

Sometimes, the interloper may inappropriately take offense at the guarderโ€™s โ€œGo away!โ€ message and bolt forward with a โ€œHow dare you, I really want that food!โ€ response. The guarder may aggressively defend her meal and blood may be shed. And in the worst-case scenario, the guarder may launch across the room and proactively attack the other dog. She may also develop a very negative association with theย  interloperโ€™s approach and attack violently every time her bowl is approached. This could have a detrimental effect on the dogsโ€™ relationship even when food isnโ€™t present.

If you fail to manage your dogsโ€™ mealtimes or address their conflicts over food, these misunderstandings may grow more common (and perhaps even more bloody).

Management rules

The first step toward preventing food-guarding aggression between dogs is management. A dog shouldnโ€™t have to warn other dogs away from her food. The dogs should be fed at least 10 feet apart, and their owner should play โ€œfood policeโ€ during their meals so whomever gets done first canโ€™t go bug the other/s. Better yet, feed dogs in separate rooms, in crates, or use baby gates or exercise pens to physically separate them during meals. Diligent management may be enough to prevent food aggression altercations.

Modifying aggression

Itโ€™s possible to modify your dogโ€™s aggressive food-guarding behavior in the presence of other dogs, but there are at least two challenges to overcome. The first is that it can be difficult to manage the behavior of the other family dogs when the food-aggressive dog is eating. The second is that we usually use high-value treats to change a dogโ€™s association with the presence of another dog โ€“ but this could increase the food-guarding response.

To address both of those challenges, you can try the โ€œI Come in Peaceโ€ protocol mentioned above, but with your second dog on leash as you pass by and toss treats to the dog who guards. Youโ€™ll need to be sure to keep your leashed dog focused on you so he doesnโ€™t go for the tossed treats as well. That would be a disaster! This works best if a second person handles the leashed dog and keeps him focused while you toss treats.

Alternatively, you could use Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT). For this, the guarding dog is eating on leash, with one person holding the leash as you approach with a second dog, also on leash. The instant you see tension in the guarding dog, you stop approaching and stand still, mentally marking that spot, and waiting until thereโ€™s any small decrease in the guarding dogโ€™s tension. The moment you see that, you immediately turn and walk away with the second dog.

You repeat this multiple times until the guarding dog doesnโ€™t show any tension when you reach the marked spot with the leashed dog. At that point, you start approaching the guarding dog just one step closer than before. Youโ€™re teaching your guarding dog that relaxing makes the other dog go away, so she no longer feels the need to be aggressive to protect her good stuff.

Of course, youโ€™ll still need to manage future interactions so your approaching dog doesnโ€™t blithely invade the eating dogโ€™s space. CAT is a somewhat complex procedure, and you may need the assistance of a qualified force-free professional to properly implement it.

For more information on the CAT procedure, see โ€œConstructional Aggression Treatment Can Improve Behavior,โ€ December 2009.

Itโ€™s Not Always Easy

Managing a resource-guarding dogโ€™s behavior and environment is simple โ€“ but not always easy โ€“ and vital for keeping peace in the household. Just remember that dogs have a right to keep their good stuff, and itโ€™s your responsibility to make that happen without coercion or conflict.

What Not to Do About Food Aggression

Following the outdated and widely debunked โ€œdominance theory,โ€ some trainers encourage owners to engage in very inappropriate behaviors โ€“ such as taking food away from dogs without warning, or putting their hands in the dogโ€™s bowl while the dog is eating โ€“ in a misguided attempt to prove to the dog that the human is the boss or โ€œalpha.โ€ Be aware that coercive or intrusive training approaches such as these usually exacerbate canine food and possession aggression. These actions can also create guarding behavior in dogs who might not otherwise guard!

Donโ€™t ever do the following:

  • Mess with your dog while sheโ€™s eating. Donโ€™t stick your hands in her food bowl, pet her, or repeatedly take the unfinished food bowl away. Wouldnโ€™t it make you angry (or at least quite annoyed) if someone did that to you?
  • Forcibly take things from your dogโ€™s mouth. This increases her resistance and makes her more likely to bite.
  • Allow others to invade your dogโ€™s space while sheโ€™s eating. Whether itโ€™s a human, dog, or other household animal companion (cat, rabbit, etc.), sheโ€™s entirely within her rights to tell them to leave her food alone!
  • If your behavior is appropriate around your dog and the resources that are valuble to her, sheโ€™ll be calm and comfortable with your presence, and the potential for aggressive guarding greatly decreases.

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Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, grew up in a family that was blessed with lots ofย animal companions: dogs, cats, horses, rabbits, goats, and more, and has maintained that model ever since. She spent the first 20 years of her professional life working at the Marin Humane Society in Marin County, California, for most of that time as a humane officer and director of operations. She continually studied the art and science of dog training and behavior during that time, and in 1996, left MHS to start her own training and behavior business, Peaceable Paws. Pat has earned a number of titles from various training organizations, including Certified Behavior Consultant Canine-Knowledge Assessed (CBCC-KA) and Certified Professional Dog Trainer - Knowledge Assessed (CPDT-KA). She also founded Peaceable Paws Academies for teaching and credentialing dog training and behavior professionals, who can earn "Pat Miller Certified Trainer" certifications. She and her husband Paul and an ever-changing number of dogs, horses, and other animal companions live on their 80-acre farm in Fairplay, Maryland.

1 COMMENT

  1. Regarding the Donโ€™t Ever Do section, occasionally my dogs will find a chicken bone or similar food while out in the world. I will invariably stick my hand in their mouth to pull it out, worried it might splinter and cause a perforation once inside them. What do you recommend as an alternative so I donโ€™t ever forcibly stick my hand in their mouth?